http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supco-Mars-GemTech-Furnace-Fan-Blower-Relay-24-volt-coil-90290-4-Spade-/370754330014?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5652ae1d9e
They cost only $18.99, and they have adjustments that you could make the relay oscillate more efficiently, and quicker or slower, which you really need to make this circuit function better. I have been busy upgrading this blog daily so, please be patient for replies. I am still working to upgrade the circuit and make a pcb to sell to the public so you can experiment with this stuff too. It is changing daily because of requests to add this, or questions of why the changes have been made from the first video on Youtube. I changed it because the relay switches froze up on the first relay after day 4. I haven't been successful to run more than 5 amps with the circuit without draining it, so, I am after a way to power hundreds if not thousands of watts from new advances that I have been making. I will post all upgrades to my diagram day after day if I come across new discoveries, which I find new phenomenon every day!
I think I have figured how to store radiant energy and actually use it to do work and charge batteries while it does so, but, it is still a Beta design for me, and I'd like other experimenters to try it out to see what they can turn this into. I have found that by laying the circuit on a metallic table, or a large metallic object that it produces much more power. I don't know why, but it is so in my findings. It also produces more energy during the day than at night.
Tesla has discovered that radiant energy needs to be drawn or introduced into a circuit by having an arc gap, and an antenna which will pull in this energy if the circuit has some sort of Earth ground. This circuit does not need the antenna to work, but, it isn't as powerful without it. I have used this in my car to produce HHO gas, so, it works just fine without the antenna. It certainly can not power large loads by itself, so, put a small load such as an led on it(in parallel with the battery to start, then see what happens. The voltage usually stays the same at the battery, at about 14-16 volts when the relay is oscillating, even with light loads connected. The higher your radiant antenna, and larger your capacitor's mfd range, the more energy ytou will draw and store. When shut off, the battery will die if the load remains connected to the battery, so remember to disconnect the load or lamp you use.If your voltages are very extreme, make sure you allow the circuit to use a spark gap to eliminate very high voltage loads through your circuit.
I am finding that the LED I use is a super high intensity 12 volt automotive led from China which draws 3-4 watts. This has stayed running perfectly for 4 days without discharge of the battery at all. In fact, after I shut it off,and opened the antenna, the battery resumed it's charge and rested at 14.4 volts for some time, then slowly discharges to a high 12 v range! I originally started using the battery with a resting voltage of 11.8 volts, so, the circuit certainly charges itself, even without an antenna connected! The circuit needs no antenna to charge a battery , unless too large of load is connected, and be sure your battery has enough juice to oscillate a relay. I changed the relay from an automotive style relay that was shown in my original Youtube video to a fully adjustable industrial 24 volt coil relay that can handle 15 amps in the switch for up to 240 volts.
Please use this circuit at your own risk. I can not be responsible for any injury, electrocution, or fires that people may cause trying to use my circuit. To be safe, fuse the circuit lightly, and test your results of overunity and post them to this site so I could see you are having fun! It does work and I know so because I use this daily!
Please post your results, and if you have any questions, please ask. I will try to help you out.
The battery used is a 12 volt lead acid battery. The specs are (UB1270) 12 volt, 7 AH battery. The capacitor is a 370 volt motor run capacitor. These capacitors can be dangerous, so, please use with caution. It is not a motor start capacitor, so please choose wisely and match the components correctly. It's a Temco RC0096 . 370-440v 100uF .
The antenna I use is a piece of cable TV wire, shielded with ground, and connected to the stainless steel plate to collect radiant energy, but, the open ends have 6 inches of creepage distance (stripped back and foil brought back to create an antenna that can not discharge to ground when high voltages are present, otherwise, you may be in for a real surprise if your antenna is up too high , or you are drawing in induction from nearby utility transmission lines. STAY AWAY FROM UTILITIES... It's a really fast way to get hurt, burnt, lose a limb, or just get killed from it! I do not recommend using this within 50 feet of any 5-35 kV overhead distribution line, or 500 feet of any 69kV to 345 kV transmission line.
The center conductor of the antenna is connected to a stainless steel plate, which is insulated with Plastic Dip. The plate is insulated from the roof of my house, with anything that is a great dielectric, like porcelain insulators, or fiberglass insulators with rain shields on them, possibly insulators from a high voltage switchgear.
The circuit end of the shielding is connected to an Earth ground. The higher the antenna, the more voltage from radiant energy is drawn into the circuit.
The circuit without the antenna will still electrocute you, so, please wear protective rubber gloves made to resist electric shock. I wear 8kV lineman gloves while the circuit is running, and they may not be enough under an avalanche situation because thousands of volts can come through the antenna during local lightning strikes, especially if it were to be struck by lightning. It is best to put a disconnect point, with lightning protection on it. Please be responsible.
The relay used is a 5 connection relay with a normally closed and normally open connection. It will employ an 85 and 86 terminal without a diode or resistor in the relay pack. It is vital that your relay does not have any diode or resistor tied to the coil in parallel, otherwise it will not produce back emf, or be isolated from the production of it.
Thanks for this circuit, I'll try and replicate. Can you tell me the type of diodes you are using, I didn't notice any diodes in the video? But I see a couple used on the schematics.
ReplyDeleteAlso, looks on the circuit as though you are feeding DC rectified output into the AC capacitor? The circuit appears a bit different to the video.
ReplyDeleteStandard 1N5404 diodes. I made some changes to the circuit I used in the video, and it seems to work for the better because if you look at the circuit having an antenna, the static voltage comes from the antenna, and will only store into the capacitor if the diodes are present. I did forget to indicate the location of the Earth ground, which will need to be above the rectifiers (connected directly to the cap), on the rectifier side of the capacitor, so the cap can charge, reason being is so when 87a opens, the arc across the switch will be radiant energy through the switch (arcing/arc gap) and relay, and antenna radiance will pour directly into the cap as a full wave (which is pulsed anyway) . Radiant energy's current does not travel in the standard "negative to positive" direction, nor is it an AC sinewave. The wave is an "aether" anyway, and is all over the place if you scope it. Be sure to use HV probes to protect your scope. I blew out a pc scope testing this circuit..
ReplyDeleteThe circuit can be changed to whatever you'd like it to be, and, I'd recommend trying different diodes, possibly in different places after you put together the circuit. Without diodes in the circuit, the cap will not hold a charge and release when needed. An AC cap can only handle ac without failure (if you plugged it into your house mains, etc. The thing i tried to eliminate was the explosion of the electrolytic capacitor that was happening, by replacing it with a motor run cap. I'd have super capacitors in there if they would handle the voltage. Im afraid to put them all in series and have them blow up from 600 volts. An AC cap doesn't mean it isn't capable of storing dc or chopped wave voltage, it has the ability to store this, but, don't miss the fact that there is a battery there soaking up the ac voltage. The battery will not allow the circuit to have an available AC wave to be tested from the battery when the voltage will actually be sent back to the battery when the switch is opening and arcing "counterclockwise", instead of the emf pulse getting a pulse clockwise, which my attempt was purely to eliminate that, and it worked being sent in the opposite direction. Also, if you take the case off of the relay, you will notice ice forming on the relay contact. This indicates cold "radiant" electricity is being used here, and the relays do not even get warm.
I used a 3amp rectifier diode, and I also tried schottky diodes. I wanted to try zener diodes there but I just didn't have any. You can try eliminating the diodes as I did originally, and use no antenna, then, put another relays exactly as I have, all connections in parallel with each other, to double the coil volume.
The relay type is standard. You can buy a Bosch 5 connection automotive relay, potter & brumfield, or any cheap imitation. These are used for car alarms, and are very common to be sold with the pigtails on Ebay for like $5 with the wiring. You can also use the circuit without the capacitor and it will still work, so, give it a shot as you would, but be careful, nobody will believe how much energy is released from it until you break the circuit and you get nailed once your hands reconnect the lost load that will be connected, as a light bulb, or other products. Use a non rms digital dc meter to test and see where the radiant energy is coming from otherwise it will look as if it is doing nothing. My Fluke meter shows just the dc voltage, and shows no extra back emf being added. My other 3 meters show everything, as well, on AC show 60-900 volts of output, constantly fluctuating. My Ideal Sperry meter shows the emf spike as working energy, and the circuit stays on, and keeps going for days with LED light on, aas well as the efficient hho cell. I just offered everybody online a circuit that works with the antenna as well, but, don't forget to add the earth ground to the other side of the capacitor, and if the antenna cable is shielded, please connect it to earth as well.
Cheers,
Marc
You'll have to be careful how the cap is added to the circuit because the cap can slow the relay oscillation down when you try it in different arrangements. If the cap is in series to the relay coil, it will slow the oscillation down to the speed of an automotive flasher, which is always different with the amount of capacitance because it would charge, then discharge to allow the circuit to operate.
ReplyDeleteWe are using this cap as a "stiffening" cap for the DC voltage from the battery, and a place to store the antenna's much higher voltage radiant energy, which will also be absorbed into the battery as a charge, overcharging it, then releasing the power into a load as work. Without the load, the battery will probably explode as there isn't protection in the circuit to stop the overcharge. Shutting the relay coil off can cause avalanche and with bigger relay coils may cause a massive discharge if the battery would be disconnected, which needs to be eliminated for your protection at all costs if the relay's coil was modified or replaced with a larger coil. Please do not add a load without insulated gloves on your hands as I did obtain a very nasty shock from wiring a relay like this and attempting to run the load bare handed. I thought that it was only 12 vdc, it won't bother me... then, zap, I got it! Keep in mind that radiant energy is a negative energy. Batteries put out positive energy, so, arrangements of diodes and such must be used accordingly to the energy being applied. The DC current travels negative to positive, so, one would assume that radiant energy would be opposite since it is called negative energy? Im not sure, more research needs to be done with this circuit.
ReplyDeleteCan you do a video showing new circuit? Also the Relay's what are the part numbers for them, they could be important as they are all different with impedance and draw.
ReplyDeleteHave you tried other's to confirm they work?
Hey Wally, I apologize, I have been working to better the circuit to produce much more voltage and amperage, as well, the wife has been upset with me for spending so much time as she says, "making love to electricity instead of her".. I will be back with some more posts and videos as soon as I make more. I have a couple of businesses to run, my hobby, my family, and a new puppy. I am very busy, but, i will be back to post a new edited video for this blog soon. Feel free to post any videos you make as well, or links to some. I am always up to see things new that I can tinker with.
DeleteHi All, I've been working on a new antenna system to try some effects on radiant draw with a much larger plate, maybe different shapes and sizes. Some use rings, some square plates, and some use staffs. I'll try everything I can until I succeed with the ability to do some work, or possibly run the lights in my house. I have faith in Nikola Tesla's ideas, and there may have been a radiant energy circuit he invented that hasn't been seen because government has taken the papers away shortly after his death. If this is the case and just a few changes would make this all work, I bet I am going to eventually figure it out! If this happens, I will be posting it here, as well as 4 or 5 other places at the same time to ensure it will always be somewhere online for somebody to take and use. I have another concern for followers here, so please read below as it may be reason for failure in different areas......
ReplyDeleteI am not sure if this will matter at this point, but, Bernoulli's principle may take place in different hemisphere's as Bob Boyce's 3 phase Toroid does. I just noticed that my relay is wound in a ccw fashion. It is very difficult to tell that it is, but, you can generally tell from the beginning copper strand to the end, which direction it goes from the top or the bottom of the bobbin if you could actually see the windings and where the wire comes out of the bobbin.. It's very hard to see since the coil wire is so tiny.
I looked at another of my relays (both made in China) and the other is wrapped CW. In the northern hemisphere, Bob states that the coils must be CCW, and the Southern hemisphere they must be opposite. I would imagine that it has something to do with the Earth's spin and the magnetic field. I don't know why this is, but I would assume there is magnetic rotation responsible for the draw of radiant energy. His system uses a Toroidal Power Unit that is surely rotational, as, in a relay, the inductor is rotational only around the bobbin of the relay making magnetic field to throw a switch. But, our relay has two functions here, one is to throw the switch, and the other is to deenergize, collapsing on it's own magnetic field and forcing a back emf spike into the circuit. For some reason when the circuit deenergizes, it has a difference in potential either against the Earth's magnetic field, or with the radiant energy of the Earth's atmosphere, causing a massive burst of energy. I don't think this would happen if the circuit were mounted in a place where there wasn't any planetary magnetism or radiant field strong enough to make this all happen. Tesla made mention of his radiant device possibly drawing energy from the Earth's constant lightning strikes. This would make sense if the circuits of Earth were always statically charged, because the atmosphere is all connected. The static charges build as a capacitor and once the charge is high enough, it discharges to Earth, and a piece of this energy he believed is gathered using systems like this with an antenna. I have seen other systems that use antennas actually get decimated that had sensitive electronics when an electrical storm was only in the area .
The lightning actually never struck these systems and this basically proves the energy had to derive from somewhere since it wasn't connected to any incoming electrical lines, cable tv or telephone lines. I asked myself, "how can this be?". The other I have seen was my parents vehicles both had transmission and automotive ecm failures just after an electrical storm. Both vehicles were just close to a lightning strike and were never hit by the discharge. The lightning hit a nearby tree, but wasn't close enough to the vehicles to even get any static dispersion through the ground. The car stereo was also destroyed, so, I guess I figured out what had drawn in the energy with it's antenna. My guess is that the lightning didn't touch the antennas, and didn't hit the vehicle, but, the vehicle did not have a ground either. The energy was harnessed through the radios, and must have been dispersed across the electronics, then discharged at very high levels through capacitors, or, the car acted as a capacitor, using the earth as the other conductive medium, and the tires as the dielectric.
ReplyDeleteOnce the lightning struck, the electrons moved from both the metallic side, and transferred electrons to Earth, with the buildup of energy from the lightning source being close by. We aren't trying to harness lightning directly, because this would be deadly,. rather, we are attempting to harness the radiation produced by the lightning from a distance, or through some part of the circuit. We know Earth has hundreds of discharges happening al;l over it at the same time, so, we just need the correct device to draw some of this energy. Tesla did it, and I know I can. You can too with a little bit of experimentation. Please let me know if I sound crazy. I may sound so, but, Tesla did too at the time of his R&D. I'm not trying to be the next Tesla, but, I'd like to make some inventions happen that use this phenomenon, and actually make them do some work such as create HHO on demand to run engines or my own vehicles, as well, create electricity for my house, or gas to run my furnace and hot water heater.
Marc, interesting you mention the relay and the windings etc. Have you tried other brands of relays to see if the circuit works with other ones? Might be worth trying some different relays to make sure circuit still works. What other sites are you going to post on to watch out for?
ReplyDeleteCheers Wally
Hi Wally,
DeleteI have tried many different relays, as well, I have attempted rewinding them unsuccessfully. I believe there is a bit of resonance happening with this coil, and to just wind it larger on the same size bobbin doesn't work. All relays basically have the same effect and impedance to work correctly from what I am finding. You are best using one that has adjustment screws that move the switch armature so it vibrates more or less to your liking. I advise having an analog meter measuring voltage, and with a load on the circuit, an ammeter, both digital and analog to eliminate false readings due to the voltage created by the spike. I hope anybody who comes here that is using relays from fans, or other devices post their results, because one of us is bound to make a very big discovery and make the power necessary to power a home or high current devices. Do not worry about blowing up a battery or putting to high of voltage into capacitors, because the battery draws from the caps, and it also absorbs the overvoltage from the spikes. I just wired a bank of 360F supercapacitors in series to handle somewhere near 19 volts. When the caps charge, they never get to full potential because they are always dumping into the battery. I think I should put a 555 timer on the caps and allow them to absorb over 19 volts, then have the 555 close a relay to the battery from the caps for discharge, and open from the antenna and the (coil) to eliminate back emf from charging while it discharges. Then, allow only the caps to get back emf to get the higher voltages, because the battery stays at maybe 13.6 volts and the rest of the higher voltages do not stay in the battery. The caps absorb it better, and they discharge to the battery with a high current, which is something the radiant energy does not have. Once introduced to a super cap, it has all the current in the world, that depends on how many farads the cap bank is. A battery and cap bank can operate an inverter with no issues whatsoever, so, if we build a charging system, and use another identical system to run while the system is charged, when it runs out, the relays will switch when my circuitry senses the voltage getting too low, connecting it to the freshly charged battery and cap bank, and starts charging the system it was disconnected from, so, we now have completely free energy to use anytime we need. We just need to be sure the charging system charges the system so it lasts long enough to charge the next system.
Cheers,
Marc
Hi Marc,
ReplyDeleteI'm not finding anything out of the ordinary with the circuit, can you post some more details on the relays so I can hunt them down to try.
I'm finding the draw on the relay to the battery is more than what the circuit is giving out, might be something else at play...
Wally
Any updates Marc??? Can you email me directly thanks
ReplyDeletemark, can you send me an email at wallywonka1972[at]gmail.com replace the [at] with @ I have some information I think can help out etc
ReplyDeleteMark, please email me wallywonka1975@gmail.com
ReplyDeletethanks
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